Best Birthday Ever

My birthday started early this morning (5:45!) with a surprise serenade by the staff of our place and some local villagers. The Filipinos know about a dozen birthday songs (my favorite had a line about how happy Jesus was that I was another year older) and the concert lasted almost a half hour. They also prepared a birthday tree for me—the trunk was made of the soft heart of a banana tree and the branches were ferns and flowers stuck in with 29 candles perched carefully on them. The tree was ceremoniously lit and then I blew out the candles. Everyone handed me a flower and then showered me with petals. I could get used to waking up to such loveliness.

I had mango stuffed pancakes for breakfast, then we made an early surfing trip to nearby Dako Island, which is one of the only spots around here that's good for beginners. I did not have any good rides (well, one on my knees), but Peter put on a good show, and the nice thing about reef breaks is that if you get tired of surfing, you can always snorkel around and look at the corals. On the way back we stopped at deserted Guiam Island—a perfect tiny island with coconut palms, white sand, and good tide pools. This island is so photogenic that it was the past cover of the Lonely Planet Philippines guide. We wandered around the island for a while and eventually the spear fishermen came in with some beautiful little fish. It's unfortunate that they eat such tiny colorful fish, but it's interesting to get so close to the fish—to feel and examine them. I'm pretty sure there will be no fish left in the world in my lifetime.

We had a harrowing boat ride home at the peak of low tide, so all the monster waves around the island were really rearing up. Even though we could go safely around them, the swell was enormous. We were sunburned and tired when we got back, so we lunched then napped. A spectacular sunset kept our attention this evening and then it was time to party. Peter bought me a pig, which our hosts roasted all day over a coconut shell fire. I shared my bounty with all the staff and guests here at Oceans 101 and we had a real feast with plenty of pork and rice, pancit noodles, a marinated vegetable salad, and a pink frilly cake from the town bakery to finish it off. We finished the night with sips of rum between games of pool with new friends and I must say it was one of the best birthdays ever.